• Access rights (also for the amenities): You have to be a contributor and member of a UIAA-affiliated federation. People from the NKBV need the additional subscription for Belgian rocks.

  • Groups need to register at the CAB (mostly also possible via the Dutch-speaking KBF). Space for groups is limited in Freyr. The offer of routes, the non-commercial bolting and the peaceful nature of Freyr don't suit groups very often.

  • No abseiling allowed in the weekend.

  • Rockfall possible! Goats or tourists on top can kick down stones. Besides, loose rocks can be expected in every crag, yet mostly in Le Pape: sector Jurassic Park followed-up by rockfall around La Jeunesse, Al'lègne: sector lower part (Love Me Tender) and Tête du Lion, certainly after winter. Other crags are prone to rockfall too, just like any rock crag anywhere.

  • During the breeding season (February/March 'till the last day of June) many holes in Freyr are occupied by falcons (mostly Le Pape), owls, wild pidgeons,... Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the manager (CAB).

  • Careful on the top hikes. On average 1 person each year dies in Freyr, mostly by falling off the top or because of abseil installation errors (see newspapers).

  • The available protection doesn't always allow goofing and messing around. Be aware, read the rock, get adequately educated before you get here and assess risks. Freyr is not a drive-in playgarten. Some protection gear is old, rusted and untrustworthy. Sometimes the first bolt is high. Freyr is notorious for no-fall zones and unannounced runouts.

  • From time to time the military trains on Merinos. Ropes and rocks may be thrown down.

  •  

    Even just on the pages with the alpinist accidents there tend to be at least just as much reports of fatal bike, car and motorcycle accidents near the Freyr rocks. However over the decades the accident ratio of traffic has been diminished. Climbing accidents can also be brought back, not by haltering climbing but by training and guidance. This paper poses epidemiological indications of how proper use of helmets, experience and self-reliance are preventive factors that can decrease accidents.

    It may seem that tragedies almost exclusively involve beginning sectors Mérinos and Jeunesse, along with accessible grade multipitches on the other walls. Some derive that the danger is mostly among beginners since a beginner implies danger. This however cannot be concluded from this information: 1) beginning grades don't necessarily equal beginner practitioners, 2) the amount of climbers who venture into accessible grades is far larger compared to those venturing into the advanced grades, making them well represented in climbing and not easily overrepresented in specific statistics, 3) the sample is small and anecdotal rather than statistical, moreover it's mostly during course exams (and assorted events) that mistakes or non-fatal accidents get reported. The majority of events is not reported.

    Yet it must be said that Mérinos and Jeunesse probably traditionally are most bolted of all sectors in Freyr, though that's still less than modern standards. Yet in 1963 Lionel Terray would have stated that Freyr had the most bolts of all climbing places known at that time. In 1964 Claudio Barbier wrote an article on how too much fixed gear lures climbers into adventures that are beyond their current skills to make it right, safe and pure. This website, alpinism by fair means, tells the story of the 1968 'piton war' when police for instance rang a door in Mechelen. Eddy Abts opened. His house had to be searched. Conservative club-climbers had filed complaints against him and three other youngsters around the country for the theft of pitons from the Freyr rock. Indirectly the rigid club men contested the free climbing (avant la lettre) of Claudio Barbier and the gearless climbing of Jean Bourgeois. The move of the old CAB officials fired back as the moderate people sided with the less extremist youngsters. The CAB officials were relieved of their duties.

    For international statistics on rock climbing accidents (of which one can learn) the DAV is probably the most inspiring pioneer providing updated reports.

Databases of a tiny fraction of (near-)accidents that have been reported:

klimongevallen.nl collects a few reported accidents in the Dutch community, being a tiny fraction of the total.

DATE

LOCATION

SITUATION

EVENT

RESULT

16h, 23th of September 2019

Undisclosed 3-pitch beginner multipitch.

Noticeably tense uncomfortable climber on top belays two followers with halfropes through a tuber.

One climber falls and the belayer has a hard time holding the climber. Reporter (nearby climber) observes wrong tuber installation. Only a kink and by chance the right angle provide belaying.

Bypassing reporter saves the situation with the express hoist (flaschenzug).

13h, 23th of May 2019

4+ La Savonette, top pitch on Mérinos, opened by de Grunne in 1930. Now polished.

Leader takes clipstick (what? where from?) puts draw and rope in the first bolt and climbs.

Leader slips and falls at the first bolt. Leader slides down two meter along the rock.

Foot hits a stone that sticks out. Right foot: Multiple fractures, a collapsed bone and a crushed bone.

16h, 4th of May 2017

Undisclosed

Leader starts single pitch route and is halfway the first bolt (claims to be 5m high).

Foot slips.

Tumble down. Knee hurts a bit.

15h, 4th of July 2016

Undisclosed

Leader starts pitch in a multipitch. First bolt is clipped in.

Leader falls on the sling that is installed at the belay station.

Contusion in the foot.

22h, 3th of July 2016

Bivouac zone

Student of club walks to the toilet.

Stumbles.

Sprains ankle.

12h, 20th of September 2015

Al’lègne down by the water. Past the first length of 5+ Schmilblik. 27crags notes the rock can be loose and advises to climb like an alpinist: light.

Lead climber does not have margin in the grade and relies on an old topo that doesn’t show a new in-between line. Leader aimed for a L1 but ends up in an L2 several meters above the last point of protection.

A piece of rock breaks. The lead climber falls, head first.

Smack against the rock. Partial loss of consciousness (doesn’t mention if there’s a helmet involved). Pain in elbows, knees, chin, head, ribs and back. Ambulance arrives by boat. Leader needs stitches and has bruises but has no fractures.

11h, 6th of April 2015

Classic 5 ânes multipitch. Step-in grades. Plateaus.

Party of two. Leader installs a belay station at R1 and the follower will come up.

Belayer’s dynaconnexion lifeline is said to have slipped out of a ball-lock carabiner (two-lock).

Presumed 10m tumble/fall arrested by coils of rope wringing around each other and a little rock. Abrasions on both hands, bruises on right foot, back and flanks.

14h, First of April 2015

Undisclosed

A leader arrives at the wrong chain, where another climber is struggling to prepare gear cleaning. Said leader puts the rope through the bolts and comes down.

The climber that’s left there decides to put the own rope through the same bolts and come down too.

Rope on rope. Unknown damage. No further direct results.

13h, 13th of April 2014

La Jeunesse

Belayer belays.

Stone (40cm diameter) is pulled loose by a leader and falls plusminus 25m down.

Stone abrases hand and lands on foot. Hand open and bruised, thigh blue, foot bruised, 2 fractures in small toe and large gash needs stitching.

12h, 16th of June 2013

Undisclosed

Leader climbs an accessible polished route which is not too steep.

Leader falls backward above last point of protection, tumbles down and hits belayer.

Leader: broken tailbone. Belayer: torn lip.

17h, 21st of October 2012

Third length of an undisclosed 5-pitch multipitch that combines traverses and scrambles.

Exam of club students. Leader leads.

Kneecap slips out of place and leader falls.

No injuries by falling. Evacuation without the assistance of emergency services was possible.

15h, 13th of May 2012

Al’lègne down at Nina Hagen

Above the climbers a cordée is traversing in the classic step-in grade Al’lègne multipitch despite closure for the breeding season. Climbers down don’t wear helmets.

Rocks are kicked down, one 15cm in diameter. Climbers at Nina Hagen flee.

Near-accident.

16h, 12th of March 2011

Al’lègne down at Fifi Pied d'Acier.

Above, a cordée is in the eponymous Al’lègne mutipitch, as stated above, the zone was actually closed for breeding season. Moreover abseiling is not allowed in the weekend yet the cordée suddenly decides to abseil down from the wall.

Rockfall.

Near-miss.

13h, 5th of March 2011

Undisclosed 5a route

Leader performs examand tries to clip in the second point out of reach, above head. Foot is behind the rope.

Falls. Turnsbackward. Belayer jumps back.

Belayer reacts in time. Leader experiences only bruises. No grounder.

Klimenbergsportongevallen.eu (similar initiative but from Flander’s federation). This database only started collecting in 2019.

DATE

LOCATION

SITUATION

EVENT

RESULT

14h, 16th of August 2020

La Jeunesse, at Cécile sproutch raider

Person walks down

Slides down on loose little rocks and hits the ground.

Hematoma right at the tailbone + "kink" on the 5th vertebra. Unable to sit for days.

13h, 10th of November 2019

Le pape

Leader (with recent history of shoulder instability) is between first and secnd point.

Shoulder luxation

Down in safety.

16h, 6th of April 2019

Undisclosed

Leader leads.

Lead fall, puts foot.

Sprained foot.

11h, 1st of November 2018

La Jeunesse, 5b La Rue Lépic (ends a few meters to the left relative to the starting point)

Descender cleans the route and unclips last draw near the bottom, still clipped into the rope of the belayer.

Pendulum launch for both.

Belayer pulls knee ligaments.

Own observations:

  • Two times I witnessed the ambulance arrive for Mérinos

  • Once at Mérinos and once at Jeunesse students swung loose when coming down and cleaning. They smacked other climbers out of their route (similar to the last mentioned case in the previous tab).

  • Multipitchers on Pape throwing down stones without the usual "Cailloux"-warning. Then cleaning and dropping plants and sand.

Media (Belgian + Dutch archives): 7 recent incidents, of which 6 fatal of which 1 concerns a climbing activity (solo'ing) and 1 an abseil error

DATE

LOCATION

SITUATION

EVENT

RESULT

March 2020, report by the talented victim

The 40m Super grippe (extension of La Grippe Intestinale) on Al'lègne

After finishing the leader is lowering on a 70m. The belayer is new to the game. None checked if there's a knot in the end of the rope.

15m free fall, landing behind the belayer. Newspapers speak of 20m or tens, some falsely insinuate the victim is a woman.

Ambulance by boat. Dalcaneum fracture and a fracture of the 5th metatarsal in the left foot.

August 2019

Top of Al'lègne

Hiker on a short trip must have diverted from the path, close to the slippery edge.

Falls 30-40m down.

Fatal accident. Some newspapers falsely claim the person is an alpinist.

July 2016

Undisclosed

Woman hikes.

Fall

Fatal

October 2015

Undisclosed

Man climbs a bit on alone after sister had to go home already.

Fall

Fatal

April 2008

Trou of La Jeunesse

Teacher from Flanders demonstrates abseil from the cave for later adventure day.

Abseil installation error.

Fatal 30m fall.

April 2007

Undisclosed

Person with one kid, some newspapers wrongly speak of an alpinist.

Fall of both.

Proof of family drama. Fatal for the kid.

September 1998

Top of the rocks

Person with two kids.

Fall of one kid.

Proof of family drama. Fatal.

1997

Undisclosed

Two climbers from the Flemish club Bergstijgers

Fall.

One fatal, the other severely injured.

July 1996

Undisclosed

Climber from Waasland.

Fall of alleged 20 meters height.

Severely wounded.

June 1996

Undisclosed

Climber duo from Antwerp.

Falls and hits nearby Dutch climber and own belayer.

Fatal for climber, two others severely wounded.

CHECK

ARCHIVES

FOR

1970

1990

May 1968 (scource)

Mérinos North

Climber wants to abort the multipitch by walking out at Mérinos-Nord.

Slips and falls 15m down.

Fatal.

September 1967 (source)

Undisclosed

Climber

Rock breaks, climber and rock fall down, rock cuts rope on the way.

Fatal. (Article mentions more accidents in that time which make the landowner rethink the leasing contract to the Club Alpin Belge.)

August 1966

Undisclosed

French climber

Rock hits the climber's face.

Fatal. Hand injury for a person nearby.

January 1964

Pape multipitch

4 French climbers

Lowest falls 8m lower.

Severely injured.

October 1964

Undisclosed

Parisian cordée on a multipitch

One falls 7m high.

Fractures.

April 1957 (source)

Undisclosed

Cordée of three Dutch climbers

The upper climber is 70m high. One of two followers is in trouble and calls for the other follower to come quickly up and help. The follower in trouble falls, knocks the other follower off his feet. The first ends up 50m above the ground, the other one falls to the ground. French celebrity alpinist Lionel Terray was near and rescues the leader.

No help possible anymore for the two fallen Dutch climbers.

Oktober 1953 (source)

Undisclosed

Climber from Reims, France.

Fall of 80m height.

Fatal.

March 1947 (source)

Tête du Lion

Undefined number of climbers from the Charleroi region.

Makes a fall and the (static) rope snaps causing a 15m fall to the ground.

Broken skull and legs. Evacuation was undertaken via the Colébi valley and took two hours.

August 1945 (source)

La Vieille Jeunesse, the most accessible multipitch back then.

Party of four from Brussels.

The last climber falls to the ground from a height of 50m.

Fatal. After 15 years of climbing in Freyr this was probably the first fatal climbing accident.

November 1935 (source)

Colèbî rocks

Men of 80 years old hikes.

Fall of 30m height.

Fatal.